Oolong

Chinese and Taiwanese oolongs of partial oxidation; the defining step is zuò qīng (做青, bruising the leaf), which creates the “red rim, green centre” and a floral, fruity aroma. The family runs from Dòngdǐng, through Wǔyí Dàhóngpáo yánchá — rock minerality and roast — to Tiěguānyīn, high-mountain Alishan, and milk or scented oolongs. The register spans floral to mineral.